For those of you who know us well you may have heard us recount the story “What’s in the bag?” from our campervan road trip in Western Australia. (If you haven’t heard it, ask us to tell you the next time you see us, it’s a classic.) This is a different story and we’re happy to declare what’s in our bags on this, our first ever cycling tour.
Self-sufficient
The luxury of staying with friends who spoiled us with food and drink for our first few nights on the road is over now. We are heading to the East Coast where in many of the remote settlements, supplies and services are limited meaning we have to be fully self sufficient. Therein lies the problem with bicycle touring in a hot climate – we have no way to keep things cool. I’m already afraid that our luxury item of collapsible wine glasses may not get used!
Panniers
We are carrying two rear and two front panniers each plus a handlebar bag each. Dave is carrying an additional dry bag for the camping gear. Our panniers are certainly not packed to a maximum, and no doubt with experience we could pack much lighter, but for novice cycle tourists our load is heavy enough. Dave is carrying about 20kg, and I probably have around 15kg. Added to that the 10-12kg bike weight, and it is a hefty enough load to haul around in the heat of summer, which incidentally has been a scorcher so far.
Between us we’re carrying what we believe are all the essentials. Dave is carrying the tent, camping mats & chairs plus the kitchen equipment (camping stove, gas, pots/pans, plates, cups, cutlery), and I’ve got the tool bag, gadget bag, first aid kit, and electronics (iPad, bluetooth speaker, Kindle, solar panel, chargers, etc) plus the drone!
Plus we each carry the following:
A sleeping bag
A small pillow (courtesy of Qatar Airways, not that they realise it)
A towel & a sarong
Swimsuit
Flip flops
Spare pair of walking shoes (we cycle in clip-in bike shoes)
Toiletries (of which I am guilty of having too many)
A spare set of cycling clothes for cold weather (fingers crossed these will stay in the bag)
A set of clothes for the evening (layers for warm & cold)
Reading glasses
Sunglasses
Baseball cap and beanie hat (helmets which we wear when riding)
Head torch
Bike lock
Wallet
Phone
On top of this we have 2 water bottles each, plus whatever fresh food we can pick up (e.g. fruit, avocados, tomato, bread, bacon, eggs), and our dried/emergency food supplies (e.g. tuna, noodles, rice, packet soup, muesli, tinned fruit, tortillas, crackers, nuts, CHOCOLATE).
Let’s face it we are probably the last two people on earth likely to die of hunger!
As if it wasn’t enough that Ian & Natalie’s place near Hikutaia was perched high up on a hill overlooking a lush, green valley, our next hosts Dawn & Adrian’s historic home, just north of Katikati, is positioned higher still to take advantage of magical panoramic views across the land and sea. The good news here is that we didn’t have to cycle up their hill – more on that later.
Hauraki Rail Trail
Leaving Ian & Natalie’s after a full fry we were ready for anything, and the 60km ride ahead was an absolute pleasure. We rejoined the Hauraki Rail Trail riding through fertile plains, passing through Paeroa, the hometown of the famous Kiwi soft drink L&P. After this point we actually started meeting some, not many, other cyclists – mostly weekend warriors and day trippers, nobody as serious as us!
On we went through the Karangahake Gorge stopping at Waikino Railway Station for lunch. The entire trail as far as Waihi was absolutely stunning with fresh, rural, and river views around every twist and turn.
Views on the Hauraki Rail TrailStocking up on snacks at a typical Kiwi dairy
State Highway 2
It seemed a shame to have to join back on to the State Highway 2, but needs must. For the most part there is a hard shoulder to tuck in on, although with a headwind and the backdraft from the bigger trucks and towing vehicles, it was a case of holding on tight at times.
Hitting speeds of up to 50kms per hour may not seem like much, but on a loaded bike on a windy day with weekend traffic, it feels pretty fast on the downhills to keep under control. My optimistic theory of riding north to south which surely meant going downhill has already gone to pot. That and the dream of a tailwind the whole way! The uphills and headwinds are out to get us.
It was on one of the fast downhills that we were passed by a vehicle who tooted, not uncommon thus far, as everyone toots and waves. The car subsequently pulled in ahead of us. This could mean only one thing – it was someone who knew us! And yes it was Dawn whose home we were heading towards. We still had 7kms of uphill to go to get to her farm. It seemed the opportunistic thing to do was to unload the panniers right there and then into the back of her car. Instantly we felt so light and wobbly!
Dawn stopping for us on State Highway 2
Farming life
More good news and another welcome sight was Dawn again! This time on her farming quad bike and trailer, at the bottom of the steep gravel road leading up to her house. We didn’t need to be asked twice if we wanted a ride! We loaded up and along with Jess the dog dropped the bikes at the house before jumping on the quad again to head back down for a cooling dip in one of the farm’s own waterholes.
This is a magical place where Dawn & Adrian have chosen to painstakingly relocate and restore their historic home. It is a labour of love and a work in progress and we really hope to return someday to see it in all its restored glory.
Staying with Dawn & Adrian for two nights meant we had a full day of rest, it was a Sunday after all, just chilling out, doing laundry, and a bit of forward planning with their expert local knowledge.
Since we’re not purist cycling tourists we have no qualms about accepting Dawn’s kind offer to drive us through the next stretch of State Highway 2 sometimes known as “Suicide Highway” so we can avoid the heavy traffic around Tauranga.
Tomorrow will be a short cycling day from Matata via Whakatane to Ohope.
We realise it is only day three of our first ever cycling tour, and the fantastic summer weather is in our favour, but this potentially could rank up there as one of our best holiday decisions to date! That said we are probably wise to reserve judgement until sometime in mid-January, at which point we can decide who takes the credit, or otherwise, for making the decision to go on a cycling tour.
(Apologies in advance for lack of photos, but any Wi-fi we can access is way too slow to upload images. We will try and post more images on Instagram – follow us there @schindlersontour. We will add images once we get a good connection.)
Off the rails??
We’ve seen many cycling tourists on our travels around the world and often thought they must be mad, but now that we’re in the saddle they don’t seem so crazy after all!
On the trails
Of the 56kms we rode today from Miranda to Hikutaia, a good portion of it was on the Hauraki Rail Trail. A flat (yay), wide, off-road gravel trail following the historic railway corridor. We elected to stay on the road in the morning because the portion of the trail from Miranda was brand new. It opened only last month and had very thick gravel, not at all compacted yet – too much like hard work first thing in the morning.
We joined the trail after a pizza and shandy lunch stop at the Kopu Station Hotel having just crossed the Waihou River on the “new to us” bridge. The last time we were here it was the single lane bridge infamous for backing up the traffic to and from the Coromandel, particularly on holiday weekends. Looking at the old bridge now and the volume of traffic today, you wonder how it survived for so long.
Traffic was the least of our worries on the trail today. We crossed bridges and passed through tunnels, meeting only one recreational rider and a single walker the entire afternoon. The most we had to contend with was the dozens of farm & stock crossings we had to negotiate, and at one point waiting for a dairy herd to pass by as they strolled in for milking.
This quiet trail was ideal too for the first bit of experimenting with our new toy. We bought a little DJI Spark drone! Suffice to say we have a way to go before we’re producing any footage worth sharing.
Experimenting with our new drone!
Of course the day would not be complete without a hill! And sod’s law, that on this scorching day, it was the final 7kms that was the uphill slog – just when you’re getting tired and all you can think of is an ice cold beer. But we got our rewards when we pulled into Fantail Creek and our old friend Captain Morgan from our Queenstown days had his home brew ready! Ian & Natalie very kindly treated us to a night out in their local pub, complete with a true blue Kiwi character or two.
A mostly easy start on day two of our New Zealand cycling tour. Riding past farmland and horse country we even managed to reach double figure kilometres (15kms) before our first stop at Clevedon for a coffee and OJ. Our early lunch stop was sandwiches under the shade of a tree on a deserted shell beach at Kawakawa Bay – we could get used to this very quickly, but it was onwards and upwards as we had to tackle our first real climb.
Lunch stop at Kawakawa Bay
Te Motu Hill was fairly steep and winding, and with no gears to spare, a bit of huffing and puffing, and one quick water stop, we made the 170metre climb. We can do this now!
Te Motu hill climbHot and sweaty we made it to the top!
Leading and following
Contrary to what we’d thought would happen in terms of leading and following on our first New Zealand cycling tour, we realise now that it’s better if I keep Dave in my sights – this should keep us to a slower, more relaxed pace. We’ve got great little rear view mirrors that we wear on our wrists, ideal for keeping an eye on traffic and each other. After all we’re on holiday and don’t want to be going anywhere too fast!
The remaining ride was for the most part down at sea level, passing stunning views and stopping to take photos left, right and centre. By the time we reached the campsite at Miranda we were ready for an ice cold cider before we pitched Olive, our little tent and our home for the majority of the next few weeks. Soaking away the 70km ride in the hot pools after a fish & chip supper was the perfect end to a beautiful day.
(The Miranda Holiday Park campsite was NZ$53 for the night, plus NZ$20 for fish and chips.)
Our first campsite on our New Zealand cycling tour
Day one of our first ever cycling tour, and we’re off! Here we are in New Zealand and aiming to ride our bikes from Pukekohe in the North Island to Nelson in the South Island in time for our friends wedding on the 7th January.
And off we go! The start of our first ever cycling tour.
First ever cycling tour
The start to our first ever cycling tour today was a little bit later than planned thanks to the hospitality and heavy handed pouring last night by our good friend Debbie in Pukekohe. We managed a whole kilometre in the saddle before we had to make our first pit stop for lunch! At this rate we won’t make it south of the Bombay Hills, never mind Nelson.
Bee stings & red lights
If there’s one thing that will stop you in your bike tracks it is a bee sting. That’s exactly what happened to Dave less than 15 minutes into our post-lunch ride when the little blighter got him in the neck. I caught up with him and was able to pull the sting out rendering him fit to continue for the afternoon.
The other thing that should stop you in your bike tracks is a red traffic light. But not me today – I sailed on through one oblivious to the cop car following behind me. Thankfully he was in more of a hurry than me and carried on with his chase of real criminals.
Traffic & hills
Riding through traffic is one of the things we’re a bit apprehensive about, but today’s 30km route from Debbie’s place in Pukekohe to Marlisa’s house in Manukau wasn’t too bad. The Google maps bike option kept us on the secondary roads where possible.
With 5kms to go Dave announced that Marlisa’s address was Hill Road which could mean only one of two things, it was going to be either uphill or downhill, and yes you guessed it, it was uphill. But of course the good news is that when we leave for Miranda tomorrow we will have a nice downhill start. And after some traditional Kiwi hospitality and Dave’s favourites of roast lamb and pavlova from newlyweds Marlisa & David, we will need an easy start!
How we travelled from Portrush to Auckland with bicycles
Let’s start by saying we are travelling from Portrush to Auckland with our bicycles packed in boxes. We’re not riding there!
Portrush to Belfast
Public transport out of Portrush is poor at the best of times, but try get from Portrush to Belfast on a Sunday morning and you’ve got no chance! Add to the fact you’ve got two big bike boxes to transport and there’s not a taxi in town that can take you. Thankfully our friend Tommy from TWV Sports Massage came to the rescue and transported us and our boxes to the bus station at Belfast for our 9am bus to Dublin airport.
Dave and Tommy carrying the boxes!
Belfast to Dublin
Our first change of plan came as soon as we realised the boxes would not fit in the storage compartment on the express bus to the airport! This was despite having phoned the bus company in advance to check and being told it would be no problem. But not to worry, they did fit on the non-express bus that made stops along the way. We still made it to Dublin Airport in plenty of time, and only 20 minutes later than the express bus. We’d built in extra travel time to allow for these kind of hiccups. We’d always rather be killing time relaxing at the airport than feeling frantic about making it in time!
Dublin via Doha to Auckland
A bit of last minute taping and a very helpful check in clerk at the Qatar Airways desk, along with some dodgy weighing scales, meant we came in under our weight allowance of 30kg per person. Everything was good to go, fingers crossed it would all arrive safely in Auckland.
Carrying an extra roll of packing tape was worthwhile for last minute taping!
It was all smooth sailing, well flying actually, with flights on time and three seats between the two of us on each of the flight legs. What a difference it makes to have that little bit of extra manoeuvrability on a 7 hour, followed by a 16.5 hour flight (Doha-Auckland is currently the longest commercial flight in the world). Less than a couple of hours waiting around in Doha was enough to stretch the legs.
Weary and bleary after a 36 hour door to door journey including countless, texture-less airline meals, numerous movies, most of which we can’t recall watching five minutes after landing, and a little bit of sporadic sleep, it was a relief to see all our luggage waiting for us.
Safely arrived in Auckland
Now to fit it into our friend Debbie’s car who is kindly collecting us and putting up with us. She doesn’t know what she’s let herself in for! Let the holiday begin…
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
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