The “red sky at night is a shepherds delight” saying didn’t really ring true this morning as we woke up to a very gusty, grey Gisborne. Maybe that’s what shepherds like, but it’s not what two cycling tourists who are already somewhat nervous by the road ahead want first thing in the morning.
Gisborne – Morere
The gusty start set the tone for the day, and after a bit of hanging around waiting for the rain to clear we said our goodbyes to Gisborne.
Today’s challenge lay on the 60km stretch of State Highway 2 from Gisborne to Morere. It is a road busy with traffic and logging trucks, and although the first 30kms were flat we were faced with a series of long steep ascents and descents.
Roadworks on State Highway 2
Just as the morning nerves were settling down, we were chased by two fearless Rottweiler farm dogs who miraculously avoided being hit by the oncoming traffic in both directions.
The increased volume of traffic is now something we have to contend with, and for the most part drivers are respectful and do their best to give us space, but of course there is the occasional one (usually a SUV driver!) that deserves our wrath and associated hand signals.
Hills and headwinds
Today we had our biggest hills to date. The first was a 4.5km fairly steep one up Kopua Hill (120metres elevation), and a 3km downhill, before another 8km steep climb up to the top of Wharerata Hill at an elevation of 510metres. At times we resembled the hare and the tortoise, with Dave always taking the lead, but then me overtaking him on his rest breaks.
We were certainly ready for our picnic lunch at the top, but we didn’t hang around for too long as the wind would’ve skinned you! Great views overlooking Poverty Bay and Gisborne.
The viewpoint at Bartletts Hill overlooking Gisborne & Poverty Bay
If we thought the headwinds made it tough going uphill, they were much harder to contend with on the downhill. It was scary at times, impossible to hear the following traffic, and certainly a white knuckle ride as the gusts buffered the bikes on every bend.
Hot pools
It was a relief to arrive safe and sound at Morere, and even more of a pleasure to spend this evening soaking in the hot pools, especially since we paid only $2 extra each to have the entire place to ourselves! It felt indulgent and oh so relaxing despite branches being blown down left, right and centre. (The campsite was NZ$36 for the night.)
Tomorrow we’ll move on to Wairoa and hope the winds die down.
You know you’re back in civilisation when instead of waking up to the warmth and light of the rising sun, the early and rather annoying morning alarm call is traffic noise! In particular the loud logging trucks who are on the road from first light – welcome to Gisborne, New Zealand’s most eastern city, and known by the locals as “Gizzy”.
That said it was still a beautiful morning to wake up to. We are camping by yet another beautiful beach (Waikanae Top 10 Holiday Park at NZ$44 per night) which is slightly busier than most we’ve been on, but by no means crowded.
Waikanae Top 10 Holiday ParkWaikanae Beach Reserve
Tolaga Bay – Gisborne
Thankfully the sun made a welcome return today after it’s short lapse yesterday. It had been a clear blue sky when we set off from Tolaga Bay for the 60km ride to Gisborne, but by mid morning the clouds had rolled in and on a steep climb inland we were caught out in a short, sharp thunderstorm.
Caught in the rain!Lunch spot
By the time we’d rejoined the coast for our picnic lunch we had dried off completely, thanks in part to the constant headwind we were facing which got stronger the closer we got to Gizzy. Just as we pitched up the heavens opened again, but as always there was sunshine after the rain. This time in the form of a brewery – Gisborne’s Sunshine brewery was just around the corner from the campsite!
Gisborne City
Since we were in the “city” this morning we thought we’d go out for a slap up breakfast instead of making our usual muesli and fruit. But after walking the streets for two hours we couldn’t find a single place serving a fry – definitely a gap in the market here for a good breakfast café that opens before 9am! An afternoon coffee spot proved almost as difficult with the first couple of places we tried already closed at 3.30pm!
We had a similar experience this evening – this time we fancied fish and chips takeaway for dinner and had spotted a fresh fish place on our breakfast hunt, but when we got there at 7.30pm it had been closed half an hour already! We raced around town on the bikes and eventually managed to snag a takeaway from a restaurant that at 8pm was shutting up for the evening.
This opening late and closing early malarkey is frustrating for hungry and grumpy travellers! But all was forgiven as tonight Gizzy put on a show stopping sunset for our romantic fish supper on the beach. Life is good, again.
We think it is day 18 of this New Zealand cycling tour! Reluctantly we had to move on from Anaura Bay this morning as we were running out of supplies. We can only carry about two days worth of food with us. The only reason we managed to stretch the stay to three nights was because of the kindness of others.
Packed up at Anaura Bay
Kiwi kindness
Our fresh food supplies, and most of our dried foods, apart from a handful of nuts and a few gooey marshmallows, were depleted. We could have, if we’d needed to, survive on ice cream, chocolate and coke from the camp shop, but thanks to a surprise delivery to the tent by Victor on his ride on lawnmower, we had freshly caught and hot smoked lemon fish for lunch!
And for Saturday night dinner we tucked into locally caught crayfish, venison and steak, all courtesy of an invite from some lovely Kiwi and South African camping neighbours. We managed to supply the wine (quantity, not quality in this instance), by paying Victor for picking up a box of wine when he drove to the store in Tolaga Bay.
Going fishing in Anaura BayEating the rewards of the fishing trip!
The kindness did not stop there. Once we were packed and ready to go we had offers all round to drive us up the hill, and with the daunting prospect of that 2km climb in the midday sunshine who were we to refuse. Anything for an easy life!! This is our experience of a New Zealand cycling tour.
Teamwork at Tolaga Bay
It meant the afternoon ride to Tolaga Bay started with a steep downhill, followed by a fast, flat and easy 18kms.
In no time at all we had fresh supplies on board, and as the fastest tent pitching team in the south, Olive was up, and it is time for us to relax once more. We could get used to this life…
Olive pitched in next to no time!
We’re pitched up here at Tolaga Bay Campsite ($NZ32 per night) for a couple of nights.
Yesterday we pitched up at what might be the most beautiful campsite we’ve ever had the pleasure of camping at. Put simply it is pitch perfect. Anaura Bay has knocked Maraehako Camping Ground of it’s short lived perch, and is close to perfect in our camping criteria.
It has big (not that Olive and us take up a lot of space), flat, grassy sites right beside a beautiful bay of golden sandy, deserted beach with twinkling seas safe for swimming. And a friendly, welcoming host, Victor, who on our arrival very kindly donated wine to our cause as he witnessed our first hill defeat!
Pitch perfect at Anaura Bay
Getting there
The final approach to Anaura Bay is a lovely rolling road off State Highway 35 for about 5kms. Then all of a sudden a very short, sharp, steep section rises to the crest of the hill before plummeting straight down two kilometres to the bay below. Those last hundred or so metres of the rise was too much for both of us, and with the past two long days of riding taking their toll, we had to get off and push.
Our first glimpse of Anaura BayThe uphill push!Flat out!
Campsite facilities
The campsite has a great kitchen set up with indoor and outdoor tables, and a huge lounge with views across the bay to Motuoroi Island. A little shop sells ice cream and chocolate (essentials). There are fantastic hot showers which was such a welcome relief after the dribble I had yesterday at Tokomaru Bay. There is half decent Wi-fi allowing us to download our photos for the first time since leaving Auckland. The cost is NZ$40 per night.
Perhaps the only thing missing for us is a barbecue or fire pit that we could cook outside on, and the ability to buy more supplies. Oh and if we’re being picky maybe throw a cocktail bar in for good measure!
We might never leave, not just because it is bliss, but because the road out is the 2km long, steep, straight up climb!
Sadly it is not the indulgent chip and dip pre-dinner snack you’re thinking of, but the condition of the roads today!
We started out early as planned, leaving the campsite at 7.30am. We were happy it was a cooler, cloudier morning as after the first 6kms of flat road, we knew we had three biggish hills of 115m, 205m and 220m to climb. We were fully loaded with fresh supplies and plenty of water.
The first hill went well and Dave was full steam ahead. Getting stronger with every day in the saddle, he now leads on the hills so he doesn’t have to slow down to my pace. Although I’m still going at a snails pace I’m huffing and puffing a lot less than the first week, and I can keep the wheels turning.
Loose gravel
It was by 9am on the second hill that the roadworks started. The last thing you want to see when you have good momentum on an uphill climb is loose gravel, and especially thick, chunky gravel. The second last thing you want to see is the same chunky gravel when you’re travelling 50kms an hour on a downhill. We must’ve had at least a dozen or more of these gravel interludes to contend with today, and it took every ounce of balance and strength to stay in the saddle, and at times with the passing traffic it was safer to get off and push.
Pushing uphill on the gravel road
Tumble time
But the gravel won in the end and it really did stop us in our tracks – this is where the dip comes in. I was the first to come a cropper when I met a fully loaded logging truck (we are now on the logging route between Hicks Bay and Gisborne) on an uphill gravel section. When a rock hit my front wheel spokes I lost control, and fell over with one foot still clipped in. Luckily there was no traffic behind me and Dave heard my screams from the top of the hill and ran down to get me unclipped and off the road quickly. Just a few scrapes and bruises, and note to self – don’t clip in on gravel roads. My cleat had been sticking all morning so we got the tool bag out and put a new one on.
Logging truckFixing my cleat
It was much later in the day with only about 20kms to go when I rounded a downhill corner only to see a blue pannier in the middle of the road. Thankfully Dave was upright, and despite managing to slow down, his bike had skidded from under him as he hit yet another section of this annoying gravel. Once again we were lucky there was no following or oncoming traffic at that moment, and again just gravel burn for him.
Cycle tour scars!
Pit stops
Today was hard work, not only because of the gravel, but the hills were big, the wind was gusty, and the distance was our longest day yet. Saying that we had a couple of nice stops. One at Tikitiki with its Maori church and wonderful carvings. Lunch at the Kai Kart in Ruatoria, and a much needed drink stop at Te Puia Springs and to clean the gravel and grit out of our legs! All the while we met interesting local Maori folk, many of whom stopped with us on the gravel roads offering sympathy, help and lifts!
By the time we rode into Tokomaru Bay at 5pm we’d ridden just short of 90kms. We pitched the tent in record breaking time before thunder, lightning and rain set in, and with no kitchen facilities at this campsite (NZ$22 per night) we opted for dinner at the local pub, driven there by the campsite owner, and home again by the chef!
Pitched at Tokomaru Bay campsite
We think we’ll move on tomorrow – as nice as the campsite owners are, the facilities are poor and I really need a hot shower! Anaura Bay is only 28kms away and our next port of call.
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
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