Yesterday we pitched up at what might be the most beautiful campsite we’ve ever had the pleasure of camping at. Put simply it is pitch perfect. Anaura Bay has knocked Maraehako Camping Ground of it’s short lived perch, and is close to perfect in our camping criteria.
It has big (not that Olive and us take up a lot of space), flat, grassy sites right beside a beautiful bay of golden sandy, deserted beach with twinkling seas safe for swimming. And a friendly, welcoming host, Victor, who on our arrival very kindly donated wine to our cause as he witnessed our first hill defeat!
Pitch perfect at Anaura Bay
Getting there
The final approach to Anaura Bay is a lovely rolling road off State Highway 35 for about 5kms. Then all of a sudden a very short, sharp, steep section rises to the crest of the hill before plummeting straight down two kilometres to the bay below. Those last hundred or so metres of the rise was too much for both of us, and with the past two long days of riding taking their toll, we had to get off and push.
Our first glimpse of Anaura BayThe uphill push!Flat out!
Campsite facilities
The campsite has a great kitchen set up with indoor and outdoor tables, and a huge lounge with views across the bay to Motuoroi Island. A little shop sells ice cream and chocolate (essentials). There are fantastic hot showers which was such a welcome relief after the dribble I had yesterday at Tokomaru Bay. There is half decent Wi-fi allowing us to download our photos for the first time since leaving Auckland. The cost is NZ$40 per night.
Perhaps the only thing missing for us is a barbecue or fire pit that we could cook outside on, and the ability to buy more supplies. Oh and if we’re being picky maybe throw a cocktail bar in for good measure!
We might never leave, not just because it is bliss, but because the road out is the 2km long, steep, straight up climb!
Sadly it is not the indulgent chip and dip pre-dinner snack you’re thinking of, but the condition of the roads today!
We started out early as planned, leaving the campsite at 7.30am. We were happy it was a cooler, cloudier morning as after the first 6kms of flat road, we knew we had three biggish hills of 115m, 205m and 220m to climb. We were fully loaded with fresh supplies and plenty of water.
The first hill went well and Dave was full steam ahead. Getting stronger with every day in the saddle, he now leads on the hills so he doesn’t have to slow down to my pace. Although I’m still going at a snails pace I’m huffing and puffing a lot less than the first week, and I can keep the wheels turning.
Loose gravel
It was by 9am on the second hill that the roadworks started. The last thing you want to see when you have good momentum on an uphill climb is loose gravel, and especially thick, chunky gravel. The second last thing you want to see is the same chunky gravel when you’re travelling 50kms an hour on a downhill. We must’ve had at least a dozen or more of these gravel interludes to contend with today, and it took every ounce of balance and strength to stay in the saddle, and at times with the passing traffic it was safer to get off and push.
Pushing uphill on the gravel road
Tumble time
But the gravel won in the end and it really did stop us in our tracks – this is where the dip comes in. I was the first to come a cropper when I met a fully loaded logging truck (we are now on the logging route between Hicks Bay and Gisborne) on an uphill gravel section. When a rock hit my front wheel spokes I lost control, and fell over with one foot still clipped in. Luckily there was no traffic behind me and Dave heard my screams from the top of the hill and ran down to get me unclipped and off the road quickly. Just a few scrapes and bruises, and note to self – don’t clip in on gravel roads. My cleat had been sticking all morning so we got the tool bag out and put a new one on.
Logging truckFixing my cleat
It was much later in the day with only about 20kms to go when I rounded a downhill corner only to see a blue pannier in the middle of the road. Thankfully Dave was upright, and despite managing to slow down, his bike had skidded from under him as he hit yet another section of this annoying gravel. Once again we were lucky there was no following or oncoming traffic at that moment, and again just gravel burn for him.
Cycle tour scars!
Pit stops
Today was hard work, not only because of the gravel, but the hills were big, the wind was gusty, and the distance was our longest day yet. Saying that we had a couple of nice stops. One at Tikitiki with its Maori church and wonderful carvings. Lunch at the Kai Kart in Ruatoria, and a much needed drink stop at Te Puia Springs and to clean the gravel and grit out of our legs! All the while we met interesting local Maori folk, many of whom stopped with us on the gravel roads offering sympathy, help and lifts!
By the time we rode into Tokomaru Bay at 5pm we’d ridden just short of 90kms. We pitched the tent in record breaking time before thunder, lightning and rain set in, and with no kitchen facilities at this campsite (NZ$22 per night) we opted for dinner at the local pub, driven there by the campsite owner, and home again by the chef!
Pitched at Tokomaru Bay campsite
We think we’ll move on tomorrow – as nice as the campsite owners are, the facilities are poor and I really need a hot shower! Anaura Bay is only 28kms away and our next port of call.
If you think biking is a slow way to travel, then try hitch hiking! We’ve both done our fair share of hitch hiking over the years, but these days, being older and wiser, we’d only do it if locals give us the thumbs up (excuse the pun), which in this case they did.
Today we cycled from the campsite to the township of Te Araroa (about 14kms) and parked the bikes, and along with dozens of locals (many dressed in black), we waited for the shop to open. Once we’d stocked up on water we waited by the side of the road hoping for a lift to the East Cape lighthouse.
Te Araroa townshipHitch hiking out East!
Lots of local traffic passed us by, more than we’ve ever noticed in any of these tiny settlements, and it didn’t take long to realise that the entire community was attending a funeral at the marae, hence the black clothing, and the rush on the shop for supplies.
Tourist traffic is few and far between, in fact apart from one rental car, there was none!
Lucky for us one of the local roading company vans was going out to the lighthouse to check the recent rock slips and the guys stopped and let us jump in with them.
East Cape lighthouse
Ideally we would’ve liked to visit the East Cape lighthouse for sunrise. It is the most easterly point in New Zealand and one of the first places in the world to view the sun, but the road out there had way too much gravel for us to ride on so that justifies our park and hitchhike option.
It was a beautiful drive out the East Cape Road, and then a very hot, 800 steps to climb up to the lighthouse, but very worthwhile. Another bit of drone practice at the top, and then we waited around until the folk in the rental car turned up so we could hitch a ride back! The Mum and her teenage daughter who kindly agreed to let us jump in with them, had been out at the lighthouse in search of a geocache location – a fantastic global online treasure hunt concept that was new to us.
The plan for tomorrow is to get an early start and ride from the campsite here at Te Araroa to Tokomaru Bay. At approximately 90kms it is going to be our biggest day yet, but with nowhere to camp between here and there we have no alternative.
Today was a tough day, not necessarily physically, although the 55kms included steep climbs and occasional big hills, and not because of the early morning downpour either, but it was because today would’ve been my lovely Mum’s 86th birthday that made it an emotional day for me. It has been almost three months since she passed away, and there is not a single day goes by when I don’t think of her and miss her.
Between the rain drops and my tear drops it was a hard day to get through, but I believe I owe my determination to my Mum. I am forever thankful that despite not always approving of my antics, she never held me back from going on my life’s adventures. And today was one of those adventures I would relish the chance to tell her about.
Rain drops
We had our campsite and bags pretty much packed up by 8am when the heavens opened without warning! No drizzle or soft rain, just a bit of a grey sky morning, then all of a sudden it was lashing. We ran for cover under the amenities block and could do nothing but wait it out. We watched as the spray from the passing traffic, and in particular the logging trucks, got heavier and heavier – there was no way it was safe for us to be on the road.
Waiting for the rain to pass!
We’d almost resigned ourselves to the fact that we would have to stay another day at the Waihau Bay campsite (not that appealing as the shop/café had next to no supplies), when the rain stopped as suddenly as it had started. Within moments the surface water miraculously dried up so we fuelled up and by midday we were on our first steep climb.
The ride today, for the most part, took us inland and as much as we have absolutely loved the coastal route, it was great to have a change of scenery. With the potential risk of more rain it was heads down and full steam ahead, stopping way less than normal.
We got caught in only one 10-15 minute light shower, but by the time we rode into Hicks Bay for a late lunch we’d dried off. And as we reached the holiday park at Te Araroa (NZ$30 per night) the sun was back on our side.
It was time to crack out our collapsible wine glasses for a celebratory drink, and to toast my late Mum.
Reluctantly we moved on from Maraehako today, but not far, only about 25kms. We are definitely taking it easy on this New Zealand cycling tour! We cycled to the next bay, Waihau Bay, and yet another deserted beach. It is on Oruaiti beach where we once again tried to learn how to fly our drone! Practice will make perfect eventually.
Drone practice on Oruaiti Beach
The idea was to stay here two nights and stock up on supplies, but the shelves in the holiday park shop are practically empty, so much so that tonight we cycled the couple of kilometres back to Waihau Bay Lodge for dinner – scallops and steak washed down with a glass of red before making a dash back to the campsite in the dark. We had our head lights and tail lights on, and thankfully there was no traffic to worry about.
Waihau Bay campsite NZ$28 for the night. Waihau Bay Lodge dinner for two NZ$84.
Pitched upBlogging in the tent
Tomorrow we’ll move on again in the hope that the motor camp at Te Araroa will be better stocked.
It was a short, scenic ride today, about 16kms from Te Kaha to the Maraehako camping ground – our new happy place! We had the usual irresistible stops for photos, and a stop at one random roadside corner when the phone picked up reception for the first time in a few days.
Put simply this place is idyllic. We feel like we are in a Kathmandu camping advert! This could be our top camping spot of all time and is going to take some beating. We are metres from the beach with Olive pitched under a pohutukawa tree, three other campers are in the paddock, we have hot showers, and a camp shop to buy ice creams! We’re all set for a day or two. The cost is NZ$30 per night.
We have fresh fish to cook for tonight’s dinner thanks to a kind fisherman sharing his catch, followed by toasted marshmallows. Life doesn’t get much better than this.
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
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