Now in southern Namibia and at last we hit a tarred road at Aus, it felt strange, but good! After averaging 60km per hour for the last 4 weeks, driving at 100km per hr again was a pleasure. At this stage we could barely see what colour our car was inside or out – the dust and sand where everywhere!
Anyway we arrived in the fishing town of Ludertiz hoping to treat ourselves to it’s famed crayfish/lobster, but to no avail, we were just too early in the season, but we did manage to eat some fresh fish. Luderitz is also famous for it’s wind and at first we thought we may not be able to pitch our tent. We even went as far as checking out the backpackers, but when they said they were full we had no choice, but to batten down the hatches and hold tight in the tent.
It was the first time on this trip in 30+ nights of camping that we had to get out the guy ropes. The camp site on Shark Island was a stunning one with good facilities, and on a calm day (which are few and far between in Luderitz) would be perfect, but with the wind gusting at 75km per hr (Dave loves using his wind meter!) it was a bit nerve wracking in our little 2 man tent.
Luckily for us it did calm down on the first night and we slept well; however late in the second afternoon after we came back from visiting the ghost town of Kolmanskop (old diamond mining town) it was blowing again. One peg popped out and then Dave ended up holding on for dear life while Shaz was blissfully unaware in the shower that there were gale force winds outside. Then it was as if someone turned the fan off and it all calmed down so we could go out for dinner and relax knowing that we had a home to come back to!
KolmanskopKolmanskop
We thought that would be the end of the wind for us so we were in for a shock the next day when we pitched up at the Canyon Roadhouse in the Gondwana Canyon Park. No sooner had we set up camp when a storm started brewing. What we didn’t realise was that it would come through so quickly – there wasn’t even time for Dave to get his wind meter out – and in one puff the tent blew away before our eyes. Thankfully we were near a section of rough, long grass and we managed to catch the tent and it’s contents there before it all went too far. We took shelter as best we could, threw the tent in the car and ran for cover in the roadhouse (where incidentally had the most expensive cokes in Namibia N$10 each!). The storm fizzled out with a few raindrops and a very dramatic sky and sunset and we repitched safely for the night. The only damage was a very small rip in the fly sheet and more unfortunately a wee puncture in one of the Thermarest mattresses. But we should be able to fix that once we find a bicycle shop.
Our last stops in Namibia were the Fish River Canyon and Ai-Ais Hot Springs; the canyon was really impressive, but again due to the extreme heat it is impossible to do any hikes or walking. And one doesn’t really want to get into natural hot springs when the outside temp is 40 degrees!
Fish River Canyon, Namibia
From here we headed to the border and back into SA.
Before we could watch the sunrise in Sossusvlei we had a bit of driving to get there.
Although the majority of roads we have travelled on in Namibia were hot and dusty, more often than not there was some kind of reward at the end. One such reward was the Tsauchab River campsite where we had a private campsite and had the most fantastic outdoor shower built into the trunk of a tree!
The day we arrived at Tsauchab was the England v All Blacks test so we couldn’t refuse the offer from the SA owners to join them for a shandy or two to watch the game in their home. We stayed only the one night as it was really too hot in the day to do any of the hiking trails in the area, but watching the stars in the desert sky at night was spectacular.
Going in for a bush shower!
Sand dunes of Sossusvlei
Our next reward was Sesriem, the entrance to the massive sand dunes of Sossusvlei and probably Namibia’s number one tourist attraction. It was here that we even got to talking to other tourists (not German for a change), which was quite a novelty for us on this trip. The only down side here was that we had to set the alarm clock for the first time in weeks for 4.45am to get to the dunes for sunrise in Sossusvlei.
We drove Chico as far as we could and then walked the final 4km (only accessible by foot or 4WD) into Sossusvlei. It was a beautiful walk as it was relatively cool and the colours of the sun rising over the sand dunes was fantastic – it really was picture postcard stuff. We stopped for breakfast at the bottom of one dune and then climbed up to admire the views over the massive sand dunes. What breath we had left when we reached the top was almost taken away!
We took the easy option coming down – sliding on our backsides!! Sossusvlei is really a magic place and highly recommended a visit.
From here we took another long, dusty drive to Dunswib Castle – a strange sight in the desert landscape, but worth an overnight stop. We were now getting to the end of the long, dusty roads and looking forward to reaching tar again!
Well to be a bit more exact it wasn’t actually dark and it wasn’t so much a highway, but it was the C14 desert highway road from Walvis Bay through the Namib-Naukluft Park which is desert!
When we both think of the desert we think of sand and lots of it. Without any doubt we did get that on this road, but there was so much more. From the golden sandy dunes and grey moon landscape through brown, rocky outcrops and up and down steep dry gorges to vibrant burnt orange sand dunes edged with mouldy green and musty yellow meadows of tussock, the stark contrast of colours was amazing. It was a really mesmorising drive in the heat of the day on a fairly well maintained desert road. And who thought deserts were just full of sand???
It was funny to read the headline news written on the blackboard when we arrived at the petrol station at Solitaire – NZ to host 2011 Rugby World Cup. We hope that this time the NZ RFU will manage the ticket prices in a way that will get Kiwis to go to the games, unlike the recent Lions games where many of the provincial games were far from a sell out.
Well here is a surprise, I have been allowed to write again. It can’t have been too bad the first time.
So having driven vast distances with the paraglider in the back of the car and yearning to get up in the air flying, we arrived in Swakop, a place that we had been told was the best place in Namibia to fly.
Paragliding Practice
I was really excited having pictured myself soaring above the dunes held up by a seabreeze. Shaz and I drove out to the dunes and the breeze felt good but a little strong for me. I got set up and waited for about 15 mins for a short break in the wind and took off. 10 seconds and 100 metres later I was back on the ground, still it counts as a flight in the log book. Got myself set up again, waited and took off, this time stayed up for a couple of minutes. After that I decided it was time for a beer.
I had the phone number of one of the local pilots and arranged to meet him the following morning for some tips. The wind was the same as the previous day and I proceeded to get dragged all round the dunes, pretending to be in control of my paraglider but really it was the other way round. The only good thing about the situation was that 2 Swiss pilots had turned up and their ground handling was as bad as mine. I knew before that my ground handling (the ability to control the glider while on the ground and therefore have a good take off) was not good but I didn’t realise how bad.
Luckily Alex (the local pilot and instructor) agreed to come back in the afternoon and give us a proper lesson, teaching us a new technique for taking off in stronger winds and standing on a steep slope. Since then I have been out twice a day to practice and while I am still struggling a little bit I am no longer sweeping the dunes with my backside.
Taking off!
Dune buggy adventure
Actually yesterday I had a day off and Shaz and I did some touristy things. In the morning we went out on a Rhino, (as a fellow customer put it, a Golf Cart on steroids) it is basically a covered quad bike for 2 people. Well we went mad for a couple of hours, laughing like school kids. Shaz kept getting me to leave enough space between us and the guide and then flooring the accelerator to see if we could get airborne over the bumps, we managed a couple of times.
Sand dunes Swakopmund Namibia
Walvis Bay & Dune 7
In the afternoon we went to Walvis Bay just down the coast, went to see the Flamingos and then to see Dune 7 the biggest dune in the area. By this time the wind had picked up and we were in the middle of a sand storm, so we couldn’t really see the dune!
Anyway time to go and do my last days practice, we are probably heading off tomorrow. Not quite sure where but hoping to find a mountain so I can fly properly!
We have been in Swakopmund, Namibia for about 5 days now and really enjoying it. It is a little beach resort type town with very German heritage and quite a few cafes and restaurants. We have been treating ourselves at least once a day to dining out! And we are set up in a pretty nice campsite (Alte Brucke) with our own private toilet/shower, bbq area and washing up sink – it is practically luxury.
Alte Brucke Campsite Swakopmund, Namibia
The main attraction here in Swakopmund is for Dave – he can fly on the massive sand dunes that are just on the edge of town (at last his paraglider is out of the car!) and Sharon is using her time to work on her tan. Even with factor 30 she is now a slightly darker shade of white! And there is time to read up on a lot of the Fair Trade in Tourism literature.
Dave no doubt will write more about his flying at some stage, but it looks like we will stay here for a few more days of sand dune soaring, sun bathing (although we have had rain for the first time this morning) and dining out.
From here we will continue heading south towards South Africa.
If we thought that we were dirty and dusty after our week in Etosha, then we had another thought coming, we ain’t seen nothing yet! The sparkling results of our day of cleaning Chico and ourselves in Outjo (when we last updated the blog) were short-lived, but it did feel good while it lasted all the same.
To call the Damaraland region dusty would be an understatement. There was so much sand and dust that Dave turned ashen-grey in a single afternoon (no jokes please about Sharon’s already natural grey highlights which she will remedy by Christmas at the latest!). The distinguished salt and pepper look really suited Dave and now the prospect of him going grey is quite appealing!
Community Tourism
One of the reasons we persevered on the very dry, dusty and corrugated roads of the Damaraland was that we were in search of some community tourism projects that we had heard about. We wanted to show some support to locals and find out a bit more about how they operated.
All in all they were okay and surviving, but as we have found in Namibia in general, it was very hard to find information about places, there is still loads of room for improvement. One of the basic needs of a tourism operation is that it can provide a good service – this is still lacking somewhat. Still we enjoyed seeing what little there was to see – the ancient Petrified Forest, the rock paintings and engravings at Twyfelfontein and Brandberg.
Community Tourism in Damaraland
Campsites
The campsites we used were basic, but did provide good outdoor showers with piping hot water. In one site, Aba Hoab it was so windy we couldn’t put the tent up, but they did have little A-frame shelters so we managed to set up in two of them. We used one for our dining room, and in the other we laid down our mattresses for a bedroom and we were able to watch the stars at night. There were only 3 other campers in the site and they all had camper vans.
We are getting used to being the only English speaking people on campsites with a tent and in a private 2WD car (red) as opposed to white fully kitted out rental 4WD camper vans driven by German or Dutch tourists. We seem to stand out like sore thumbs and as much as we try to make conversation with other tourists we get nowhere; but we have had nice chats with locals and staff working on sites.
Driving
The drive to the coast was strange, it seemed the sea was right in front of us, but the road would continue for miles, some kind of optical illusion in the desert. Anyway it was a welcome sight when we did actually get there – Henties Bay – and we treated ourselves to fish and chips – so fresh and delicious, especially since the previous day we had probably the camping meal that ranks up there as the worst ever, wait for it… 2 minute noodles and a tin of corned beef! We usually eat well, but got caught out miles from anywhere with a limited pantry.
Apart from the fresh fish there wasn’t much reason to stay in Henties Bay so we drove the extra 70kms or so to Swakopmund, Namibia’s beach resort, and that is where we are now.
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
Pin It on Pinterest
Loading Comments...
We use cookies to ensure that we give you the best experience on our website. If you continue to use this site we will assume that you are happy with it.
