Galician granaries, or “hórreos” as they are known locally, are elongated stone structures built to rise above the ground. They have been used for centuries to store grain and corn.
You know you’re in Galicia when you catch sight of “hórreos” at every turn. These unique symbols of traditional Galician agriculture are truly everywhere, and impossible to miss. Apparently there are around 30,000 of them!
We’ve seen them in towns and villages, in the mountains, and by the sea, and we’ve never seen two the same! Some are big, some are small, some are old, some are new, but always distinctive.
The history and design of Galician Granaries
Hórreos, or Galician granaries, used for hundreds of years for storing grain, corn and vegetable crops, are unique elongated individual structures built from stone and/or wood, and raised well above the ground on supporting pillars. This design was in an attempt to keep rodents out, and as a way to protect their harvest against moisture. The walls are constructed with slits to allow air flow and ventilation. Some of the structures are built on solid stone bases rather than on pillars.
They are so typical of the landscape and we’ve really enjoyed seeing them on our travels here.
We had spotted similar structures in Asturias and Cantabria, but they were usually square in shape.
Probably the only thing we’ve seen more of in Galicia is the way marker and milestone signs for the Camino de Santiago! And funnily enough they’re often right beside a Galician granary!
If you’re ever in Galicia be sure to check them out, you can’t miss them! Let us know in the comments below if you’ve visited any Galician granaries.
If you want to know how NOT to qualify for the Comrades Marathon, The Ultimate Human Race, then you’ve come to the right place!* This post is about our attempts at how (not) to qualify for the Comrades Marathon in 2024.
We have both run the Comrades Marathon before. Dave ran it in 2007 and in 2010, and I also ran it in 2010 – you can check out My Comrades Marathon 2010 story here.
*SPOILER ALERT – we did qualify for the 2024 Comrades Marathon, but we didn’t do it the easy way! Read on to learn more about the Comrades Marathon, and the lessons we learned during the training and qualifying period.
About the Comrades Marathon
First a bit of background about the Comrades Marathon. The Comrades Marathon is an ultra marathon run on the road between the two cities of Pietermaritzburg and Durban in South Africa. It first started 103 years ago in 1921, and this year will be the 97th Comrades Marathon. The distance is approximately 90km/56 miles, but does vary slightly each year depending on the exact route used. The race starts at 5.30am and has a cut-off time 12 hours later at 5.30pm.
The Comrades Marathon, also known as The Ultimate Human Race, is iconic in South Africa, and is a challenge that attracts runners from all around the world. The modern era sees upwards of 20,000 runners take to the start line.
Up versus Downin the Comrades Marathon
The direction of the run alternates each year between “up” and “down”. The “up” and “down” effectively refers to the elevation levels of the starting and finishing points – Pietermaritzburg sits at an elevation of approximately 921 metres (3,022 ft), while Durban is pretty much at sea level.
The “Down Run” from Pietermaritzburg to Durban, is usually run in odd-numbered years, and the “Up Run” which starts in Durban and finishes in Pietermaritzburg is run in even-numbered years. There have been exceptions to this due to special events, for example the FIFA World Cup in South Africa in 2010 meant that year was a Down Run. And due to the global coronavirus pandemic the Comrades Marathon was cancelled in 2020 and 2021. 2022 followed the missing years with a Down Run, before returning to the correct odd/even sequence for the 2023 race.
This year the Comrades Marathon is an Up Run and will be held on the 9th June 2024.
Qualifying Criteria for the Comrades Marathon in 2024
The Comrades Marathon is an ultra marathon road running race where you need to run at least one approved race no shorter than 42.2km in under 4hrs49min59secs to qualify. In essence you have to run a marathon in under 4hours 50minutes, and you have to do it between 1st September 2023 and 6th May 2024 in order to stand on the start line in Durban on the 9th June 2024.
There are some additional criteria (e.g. completing a medical questionnaire), plus other official distances and times for qualifying, but for the purpose of this post we will concentrate purely on international entrants (us!) attempting to run a qualifying time for the Comrades Marathon in 2024.
The lure of the Comrades Marathon
The Comrades Marathon has a way of pulling you in. Once you’ve done one Comrades, you want to do another, and that is despite the fact that after running the first 90kms most people say never again! 2024 will see one man, Barry Holland, remarkably attempt to run his 50th consecutive Comrades Marathon!!!
Dave started with a “Down” run in 2007 while we lived in South Africa, and I vowed at the finish line of that race that I was not going to endure the stresses of being a supporter/spectator ever again. Next time I too would run the race.
Dave running the Comrades Marathon in 2007
That next time didn’t arrive until 2010 when Dave was hoping he would get the chance to complete the “Up” run and have the satisfaction of completing one of each of the Comrades Marathon routes. But apparently due to the FIFA World Cup and the 85th anniversary of the Comrades Marathon, the organisers changed the race direction to a “Down”. We both completed that race in 2010, but it meant that we would have to return to South Africa again to take on the challenge of the “Up”.
Dave in the red vestSharon in the blue vest
It has taken us 14 years to find the right time to get back to South Africa for the Comrades Marathon Up Run!
Losing my running mojo
Dave has been fairly consistent with his running over those past 14 years, continuing to bang out a decent weekly mileage, but after finishing the Venice Marathon in 2019 I didn’t think I’d ever run another marathon again. (How wrong I was!)
Finishing Venice Marathon 2019
With the onset of menopause and all the changes that come with it, plus a diagnosis of osteoporosis in my hips, I lost my running mojo. The coronavirus pandemic also meant all running races were cancelled, and the motivation for me to run without a race goal was non-existent.
And so it was during a day in late September last year when Dave was training for the Rennes Marathon in France that I decided I will start running again. If he was going to fulfil his dream of going back to South Africa to run an Up Comrades Marathon, then I sure as hell was not going to be left standing on the sidelines! My running mojo was back, menopause or no menopause, and I was ready to give Comrades Marathon training a crack.
Starting training for the Comrades Marathon from scratch
I was aware that I was starting training for an ultra-marathon from a very low base. And I was starting late in the Comrades Marathon training programme calendar – most training plans for beginners like me start from June, not October! But even if it was only two to three short runs a week, it was a start, and more importantly I had the focus and motivation to keep trying. My aching knees that I had been feeling while walking and cycling had deterred me from running, but it wasn’t long before I realised I could run pain free! By the end of October 2023 I had managed to run a whopping six times covering the grand total of 33km for the month.
At the beginning of December 2023 when my average weekly total was hitting the glorious highs of 22kms, we paid the entry fee and officially entered to run the 2024 Comrades Marathon. There was no turning back now!
The road to qualifyingfor the Comrades Marathon
The road to qualifying for the 2024 Comrades Marathon has been a tad bumpy for both of us to say the least! We had already lost four months of the qualifying period by the time we actually entered so time was certainly not going to be on our side.
In October Dave contracted another bout of Covid 10 days before he was due to run the Rennes Marathon in France. He managed 35kms of the marathon before wisely deciding to bail out. No qualifying time there then!
Running in the Rennes Marathon, the first marathon out of 24 where Dave didn’t cross the finish line.
A last minute house sitting opportunity in the Canary Islands meant we would be based there for the winter months (November-March), and it was there where our training began in earnest. Our runs became consistent four times a week, building mileage slowly, and with help from Dave’s cousin Kieran we started a strength training programme in the local gym. Adding in a good sports massage every couple of weeks definitely aided the recovery process.
By the end of the year we felt we were on target to complete our qualifying marathons by mid-late February. Seville was the one we had our eye on. But then the first disaster struck…
Injury
In early January on one of our weekend long runs, Dave went over on his ankle and damaged the ligaments in his foot! No running for four weeks, and it may have been a lot longer had it not been for a great local physio working his magic.
We had to push back the qualifying marathon to March to give him time to build up again. The only workable option we could find was the Lentemarathon in Amstelveen (Amsterdam) on the 17th March, St. Patrick’s Day. Surely that would be enough to bring us luck!!!
The luck of the Irish, or not?
Unfortunately there was to be no luck for the Irish on the 17th March at the Lentemarathon in Amsterdam, but there was for the English one of us!
Race plan
I had felt as strong and as prepared as I could be come race day. My race plan was to join an official race pacer who I could follow to achieve my Comrades qualifying goal of finishing a marathon in under 4hrs 50minutes. Despite being told when we picked up our race numbers the day before the event that there would be race pacers, there were not! A slight wave of panic set in on the start line as I didn’t have a Plan B, but I still felt confident enough that I could run the necessary qualifying time by following my own run/walk strategy I had used in training.
All smiles on the start line at the Lentemarathon in Amstelveen
Now let me make it clear here that for anyone who doesn’t know me, numbers and mental arithmetic are not my forte. As I clicked through the kilometres on my Garmin sports watch I was trying to calculate, in my head, the average pace I needed to maintain in order to make the qualifying time. I didn’t want to run too slow and risk missing the qualifying time, and nor did I want to run too fast and risk not having enough energy to complete the race.
Suffice to say that I messed up on my calculations. With one kilometre left to run I realised I was not going to make it in time. I crossed the finish line, but missed the qualifying time by one minute!!!
Not so smiley at the finish line!
If I could turn back time
It wasn’t until a couple of weeks later after persistent questions to Dave on how I could possibly learn to pace myself that he realised I hadn’t set the average pace setting on my sports watch correctly! If only I could turn back time!!!
Meanwhile Dave had taken the sensible option in Amsterdam to not push too hard and risk any further injury. He chose to run slightly slower than his normal marathon pace to guarantee a finish well within the Comrades qualifying time. He qualified comfortably despite missing out on so much of his training. Looks like he had the Irish luck on his side!
Finished and off to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day!
At least one of us had qualified for Comrades Marathon 2024, but with time ticking by fast, and our flights to South Africa booked for the end of March, I was going to have to rejig my training plan and squeeze in another attempt at qualifying when we got to South Africa.
Altitude attempt in April
What were we thinking???
As soon as we arrived in South Africa for our three month stay we were on the hunt for another Comrades Marathon qualifying option for me to do. I really wanted to get it done sooner rather than later so that I could get back to consistent training without worrying about race preparation, tapering time, and recovery time. Plus, if for any reason the second attempt didn’t work out, I needed time to fit in yet another attempt before the final cut-off on the 6th May.
The South African running calendar is full of races with lots of Comrades Marathon qualifying options throughout the country. We wanted to minimise the amount of changes to our travel plans so opted to stay a little longer than originally planned in Johannesburg, and use the Irene Ultra 48km challenge on the 7th April as my qualifier. This was only three weeks after my first attempt in Amsterdam, and less than two weeks after arriving in the highveld which has an altitude of around 1,700m/5,577ft. Far from ideal preparation given that it was so close to the previous attempt, and that up until this point we had only ever been training at sea level!
The Comrades Marathon qualifying criteria for the Irene Ultra was to complete it in under 5hrs 50minutes. With Dave helping to pace me this time we thought it would be doable. Unfortunately that was not the case. Running at the higher altitude took its toll. We simply had not had enough time to acclimatise and breathing was a real struggle. Plus one or two negative thoughts after the halfway point meant I slowed way down and had to resort to a lot more walking than running. We finished the Irene Ultra together in 6hrs 1min, but that was 11 minutes outside the necessary Comrades Marathon qualifying time.
It was back to the drawing board!
The face says it all!
If at first you don’t succeed, try, try again
Not to be deterred by two unsuccessful attempts at qualifying for the Comrades Marathon, I was determined to continue my training, and we flew to our next base in the Western Cape. But with qualification closing on the 6th May time was running out for me to get that all important qualifying time.
The best, and really the only viable option for me, was to plan to run the Buffalo City Marathon in the Eastern Cape on the 1st May (a public holiday in South Africa). We changed our travel plans once again and were excited about returning to the city of East London where we had spent two very enjoyable years as volunteers in 2006 and 2007, and where Dave had started his running career.
Recovery from the Irene Ultra was good. My training was all going well until five days before the Buffalo City Marathon when late on a Saturday afternoon I felt a sudden niggle in my hamstring. A panic stricken emergency call to our massage therapist ensued, and after finishing his work with the Stormers rugby team he kindly made a late out of hours visit to treat the sore spot. A follow up treatment on the Monday before we flew to East London made things feel a lot better, and it gave me the confidence boost I needed.
Third time lucky
The race campaign slogan for Comrades Marathon 2024 Up Run is “No Doubt – Nakanjani”, an inference to the firm belief held by those who take on the world’s biggest and oldest, and much loved ultra marathon. Any doubts I did have about qualifying had to be put aside on the morning of the 1st May as we lined up in the darkness with about 400 other runners on the side of a road in the Eastern Cape. This was not the time to feel any pressure!
It was the most relaxed race start we’ve ever experienced. An impromptu song and dance from some of the local Xhosa runners set such a positive vibe for the day ahead.
Dave and I ran comfortably together, and enjoyed the special camaraderie you get from runners in South Africa, keeping each other positive and focused. 4hours and 44minutes later we crossed the finish line in blazing sunshine. I was able to jump for joy at the relief of knowing that on my third attempt I finally got the Comrades Marathon qualifying time I needed!
Now all we have to do is get to the start line in Durban on the 9th June.
Qualifying for the Comrades Marathon at last!
Getting to the start lineof the Comrades Marathon
We have tried to give ourselves the best available chance to get to the start line of the 2024 Comrades Marathon Up Run on the 9th June. We’ve done what training we could in the time we’ve had. It has been far from ideal, but that’s life. We’ve overcome challenges and fears, and at times, we’ve definitely had our doubts. We’ve qualified to run the Comrades Marathon in 2024.
Our qualifying times determine our seeding position and where on the start line we will be. Needless to say I will be at the back of the pack in H seeding having qualified with only six minutes spare. Dave will start slightly ahead of me in G batch having qualified more comfortably in 4hrs24mins.
On the morning of Sunday the 9th June it will be a privilege to line up along with 20,000+ other runners at the City Hall in Durban. We will wait with bated breath, and our fair share of nerves, as the cock crows and the starter’s gun goes off at 5.30am to start The Ultimate Human Race. Like every other Comrade, we will do everything we can to get to that finish line before the gun goes off again at 5.30pm in Pietermaritzburg to signal the end of the Comrades Marathon. Of that there is No Doubt! Nakanjani.
Fundraising
We are running the Comrades Marathon to help raise money for two very deserving charities that are personal to us – Chai Cancer Care, and Alzheimer’s Research UK. If you would like to donate then please click on our JustGiving link here. Anything you can afford to donate will be very greatly appreciated.
Lessons learned trying to qualify for the Comrades Marathon
Start training early
Start training as far in advance of Comrades as possible. If like me you are starting from a zero to very low running base, or are a novice runner, then start training as early as possible, ideally a full year before race day. That will give you ample time and chances to complete a qualifying marathon without feeling the pressure and going down to the wire like I did!
Follow a training plan
Follow a training plan and/or get a coach. You will find training plans for all level of runners from Coach Parry, the official Comrades coach on the Comrades Marathon website. It is worth noting here that the training plans are very much based around the calendar of South African running events. We had to amend the training plan to fit in with what qualifying options were possible for us in the Northern Hemisphere winter. Things don’t always go to plan as we well know, so be prepared to adjust your training plan as you go.
Train consistently
Getting out there to run regularly 3-4 times a week at the start is more important than the distance you are running. Your runs will gradually get longer as you build the consistency.
Rest and recover
Listen to your body and know when to stop and recharge your batteries. A rest day is just as important as a training day. We added in regular sports massages with qualified sports therapists which we felt really helped to aid the recovery process.
Join a running group
Join a running group if you can. It is much more motivational to run with others, and perhaps you will find a running buddy who runs your pace. We were house sitting in a tourist resort in the Canary Islands for the first four and a half months of our training and there were no running groups to join. Training solo can be tough, especially when you’re getting up at 5am in the dark! Arriving in South Africa and being so warmly welcomed by local running groups gave us a real boost.
Do strength training
Including 2-3 sessions a week of resistance training has made a world of difference to my bones, they physically feel stronger to me, and I truly believe the strength work has helped keep injury at bay. We enrolled in a gym for 3 months, but we’re aware the costs can be prohibitive. It is still possible to do most of the body weight exercises at home (or in your camper van!) with very basic equipment. A couple of resistance bands and a few 5litre bottles of water for weights is all you need.
Stretch more
We still don’t stretch after every single run and training session, but we have gotten better. Sometimes you’re just too tired, too cold, too hungry, in a hurry, but to my detriment I know the importance of taking that extra 10-20 minutes to stretch the muscles (my hamstring niggle is still an ongoing concern). We use the Down Dog app which is a personalised yoga app. You can select your practice type, time, level, focus, voice and music.
Use a sports watch
Learn to use the functions of your sports watch in your training sessions – it is a great training tool if used properly. I missed my first Comrades Marathon qualifying attempt by one minute which could’ve been avoided if I’d had the right settings switched on!
Schedule races in advance
Enter any races and events that you are planning to do into your calendar well in advance. These days many marathons and half marathons sell out far in advance of race day. The Seville Marathon in mid-February was the one we were hoping to use as our Comrades qualifier only to find out it had sold out months in advance and had a humungous waiting list! Ideally you should work towards completing your qualifying race before Christmas so you can concentrate solely on Comrades Marathon training from January to June.
Race day strategy
Plan your race day strategy in advance, and have a plan A, B, and C just in case things change on the day. Had we known there were going to be no pacers at the Lentemarathon in Amsterdam, we would likely have run together to ensure we both got that qualifying time in the bag!
Acclimatise
If you’re running in a new country, a new time zone, on new terrain, or in a different season or setting, give yourself time to acclimatise to the new conditions whether that be altitude, humidity, or hot versus cold.
It was after the Olympics finished in Sydney in September 2000 that we started shopping around for a vehicle that would take us not quite the length and breadth of Australia, but at least some of the way around this vast country. Our mission was to drive the west coast, from Darwin to Perth, in time to spend Christmas with friends.
Shopping around for second hand vehicles in those days meant hot-footing it around all the hostel notice boards searching the “for sale” ads, and then finding phone boxes to call the sellers and arrange viewings. No mobile phones for trawling the internet back then!
In early October we found “Spot”, a 17 year old (1983) Nissan Urvan pop-top camper van. Spot had already done a few miles around the clock, and he came complete with pretty much everything we needed for an Aussie road trip. There was a lounge area which doubled up as a bed, a fully equipped kitchen with gas stove, a 3-way fridge, and a microwave. He even had a tiny TV, and a CB radio! He had a 40 litre water tank, and the shower was a portable solar shower bag. The toilet was a shovel for digging a hole! There was a great big lockable box secured on the back of the van to store the awning, the camping table and chairs, and other miscellaneous stuff.
Spot the pop top camper van
We paid a whopping AU$7,000 in hard cash (the equivalent of about £3,000 back then) to a couple of backpackers who’d already had their time in the van touring around Australia.
We christened the van Spot because we picked him up in a place called The Spot in Randwick, an eastern suburb of Sydney, and plus what 17 year old doesn’t know about spots!
We hit the road on the 10th October, and by the 13th the van was in the garage for major repairs having lost the gearbox! Not a great start to our tour down under, but considering that was our only major mechanical issue in an adventure that took us almost 18,000kms (11,250 miles) wasn’t too bad in our opinion. We did get one puncture, and after an incident with a kamikaze kangaroo we suffered a bit of damage to our water tank, but those are stories in their own right!
Replacing the gearbox early doors!
After five months of adventure on some of the most remarkable roads we said goodbye to Spot in Perth in February 2001 when we sold him for around AU$5,000 to a couple from Dublin starting their Aussie road trip.
Spot next to a mining truck in Western Australia
Van Life Lessons
We learned a lot about van life and van travel in those five months in Australia:
A fixed bed is an essential for us. Despite taking only 5 minutes twice a day to put the bed up and take it down, it becomes the most detested chore! Not only do you have to find space for the bedding, but if one of you wants to go to bed and the other doesn’t then you have a stand-off!
Even with a pop-up top it is difficult for anyone 6ft or more to stand up straight.
Having the ability to survive off-grid and be self-sufficient opens up so many more places to you. It takes a bit of planning though especially when there are no services for miles and miles.
Water is the most precious natural resource. Always carry more than you think you’ll need.
Digging your daily toilet hole wears thin! Much easier to have a waterless or chemical free loo on-board that doesn’t need emptying daily.
Air conditioning is pointless as once you switch it off it is a lot harder to acclimatise. Keep the windows down and feel the wind in your hair!
A 3-way fridge will not work in very hot climates no matter what the power source!
There is no such thing as mosquito nets that work – there will always be at least one that finds its way through.
It is the end of our first ever bicycling tour, and the last days of our summer in New Zealand.
Arriving in Auckland last night felt far from summer with the wind howling and gusting as we rode the short distance from the Strand station to our friends, Tracy & Paul in Grey Lynn, where we were spoiled with a delicious meal out in a Russian/Kiwi fusion restaurant.
Tracy & Paul
We had a last quick catch up with Candice on the North Shore, this time getting to meet little Lucas as well as seeing Emilia again, and meeting her parents who very kindly invited us for lunch.
A quick train trip and a final short bike ride and we are back at Debbie’s place in Pukekohe, from whence we started way back in November! Its time to pack the bicycles away, but not before enjoying one more glass of wine until we meet again.
The last leg to PukekoheBack where we started!One more glass of wine with Debbie
Thank you New Zealand, and one and all of our old, and new friends, for making this a fantastic trip. We’re hoping this will be the first of many bicycle tours.
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Reflections on board Dora, the Northern Explorer Train: Wellington – Auckland
Today we hopped aboard Dora, the Northern Explorer Train, for one of the great train journeys of New Zealand from Wellington to Auckland. It was a day to sit back, relax, enjoy the scenery, and watch the world go by as the train wound its way north, stopping just occasionally to let passengers on or off.
Time to board Dora the Northern Explorer TrainWindswept on board Dora the Northern Explorer TrainPassing through Tongariro National Park on board Dora the Northern Explorer TrainViews of rural New Zealand from on board Dora the Northern Explorer Train
To do this route by bicycle would have been a lot, lot longer than the 11 hours today’s train trip took, especially considering the pace we keep! The rail journey was 648km, and it cost us NZ$385. The bicycle route would be around 700-800kms which would have taken us at least 10-20 days of riding.
Reflecting on our first ever bicycle tour
With our first ever bicycle tour practically complete now (bar a few kilometres in Auckland this evening to Tracy’s house, and a few tomorrow to Debbie’s house in Pukekohe) we can reflect on what a fantastic adventure this has been.
We have racked up a little more than 1,000 kilometres of cycling during the past seven weeks. Our average distance was around 45kms per day on the days we did ride. We were mere novices enjoying the slow pace of bicycle touring by riding one day, stopping for two days, or maybe more. This was compared to a couple of hard core riders we met who rode every single day, and who, in our humble opinion, experienced next to nothing of a local place or its people. Slow travel is definitely our preferred way to go.
We’ve taken buses and boats, tied the bikes on trailers and trains, gotten the occasional lift from friends, slept the odd night in beds and bunks, were flat out in Olive the tent for 40 nights, and now we can safely say it has been, without doubt, one of the best holidays we’ve ever taken.
It has been exhilarating, and at times hard work, particularly with a heavy load on those uphill climbs when you just wish you could find another gear, but oh so rewarding. The slow pace of travel, despite the time and distance apparently passing so quickly, made us notice and appreciate everything around us, and provided the perfect opportunity to stop and meet the local people.
The sense of accomplishment we felt each day as we would look back and see how far we’d come is both real and humbling. The views and vistas from the saddle, not to mention the heightened awareness of our senses, are incomparable to that of speeding along in a car. From noticing every hedgerow, hearing every birdsong, smelling every rose (and roadkill!), to tasting the salt as we sweated it out on the uphill slogs, and feeling the tar seal blistering and popping like bubble wrap on the road beneath us – every aspect made us feel a new and real connection with the land around us.
We have made more special memories in this beautiful country that we will always hold dear to our hearts.
We missed them on our last visit to Wellington so this time it was all about catching up with the Coyles. Bob is an old school friend of mine from Omagh, and now lives in Wellington with his wife Liz, son AJ, and daughter Maddy.
We couldn’t have wished for better Wellington weather this time around. Wall to wall sunshine and barely a breath of wind – so rare for this city! Added to that, having our very own local tour guides and super hosts (the Coyle family now trading as “WBWT – Wee Bobby’s Wellington Tours”!), meant we had the makings of a great couple of days sightseeing, singing, eating and drinking.
360 degree views from Mt Victoria, swimming at Scorching Bay, and a dip in Days Bay just a few of the must-do’s.
Wellington from Mt VictoriaScorching Bay WellingtonDays Bay Wellington
We had time too for a quick catch up with Joanne, another friend from our VSA volunteer days in South Africa. Sadly just not enough time to catch up with more of our Kiwi friends. Hopefully there’ll be a next time.
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
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