Galician granaries, or “hórreos” as they are known locally, are elongated stone structures built to rise above the ground. They have been used for centuries to store grain and corn.
You know you’re in Galicia when you catch sight of “hórreos” at every turn. These unique symbols of traditional Galician agriculture are truly everywhere, and impossible to miss. Apparently there are around 30,000 of them!
We’ve seen them in towns and villages, in the mountains, and by the sea, and we’ve never seen two the same! Some are big, some are small, some are old, some are new, but always distinctive.
The history and design of Galician Granaries
Hórreos, or Galician granaries, used for hundreds of years for storing grain, corn and vegetable crops, are unique elongated individual structures built from stone and/or wood, and raised well above the ground on supporting pillars. This design was in an attempt to keep rodents out, and as a way to protect their harvest against moisture. The walls are constructed with slits to allow air flow and ventilation. Some of the structures are built on solid stone bases rather than on pillars.
They are so typical of the landscape and we’ve really enjoyed seeing them on our travels here.
We had spotted similar structures in Asturias and Cantabria, but they were usually square in shape.
Probably the only thing we’ve seen more of in Galicia is the way marker and milestone signs for the Camino de Santiago! And funnily enough they’re often right beside a Galician granary!
If you’re ever in Galicia be sure to check them out, you can’t miss them! Let us know in the comments below if you’ve visited any Galician granaries.
It was after the Olympics finished in Sydney in September 2000 that we started shopping around for a vehicle that would take us not quite the length and breadth of Australia, but at least some of the way around this vast country. Our mission was to drive the west coast, from Darwin to Perth, in time to spend Christmas with friends.
Shopping around for second hand vehicles in those days meant hot-footing it around all the hostel notice boards searching the “for sale” ads, and then finding phone boxes to call the sellers and arrange viewings. No mobile phones for trawling the internet back then!
In early October we found “Spot”, a 17 year old (1983) Nissan Urvan pop-top camper van. Spot had already done a few miles around the clock, and he came complete with pretty much everything we needed for an Aussie road trip. There was a lounge area which doubled up as a bed, a fully equipped kitchen with gas stove, a 3-way fridge, and a microwave. He even had a tiny TV, and a CB radio! He had a 40 litre water tank, and the shower was a portable solar shower bag. The toilet was a shovel for digging a hole! There was a great big lockable box secured on the back of the van to store the awning, the camping table and chairs, and other miscellaneous stuff.
Spot the pop top camper van
We paid a whopping AU$7,000 in hard cash (the equivalent of about £3,000 back then) to a couple of backpackers who’d already had their time in the van touring around Australia.
We christened the van Spot because we picked him up in a place called The Spot in Randwick, an eastern suburb of Sydney, and plus what 17 year old doesn’t know about spots!
We hit the road on the 10th October, and by the 13th the van was in the garage for major repairs having lost the gearbox! Not a great start to our tour down under, but considering that was our only major mechanical issue in an adventure that took us almost 18,000kms (11,250 miles) wasn’t too bad in our opinion. We did get one puncture, and after an incident with a kamikaze kangaroo we suffered a bit of damage to our water tank, but those are stories in their own right!
Replacing the gearbox early doors!
After five months of adventure on some of the most remarkable roads we said goodbye to Spot in Perth in February 2001 when we sold him for around AU$5,000 to a couple from Dublin starting their Aussie road trip.
Spot next to a mining truck in Western Australia
Van Life Lessons
We learned a lot about van life and van travel in those five months in Australia:
A fixed bed is an essential for us. Despite taking only 5 minutes twice a day to put the bed up and take it down, it becomes the most detested chore! Not only do you have to find space for the bedding, but if one of you wants to go to bed and the other doesn’t then you have a stand-off!
Even with a pop-up top it is difficult for anyone 6ft or more to stand up straight.
Having the ability to survive off-grid and be self-sufficient opens up so many more places to you. It takes a bit of planning though especially when there are no services for miles and miles.
Water is the most precious natural resource. Always carry more than you think you’ll need.
Digging your daily toilet hole wears thin! Much easier to have a waterless or chemical free loo on-board that doesn’t need emptying daily.
Air conditioning is pointless as once you switch it off it is a lot harder to acclimatise. Keep the windows down and feel the wind in your hair!
A 3-way fridge will not work in very hot climates no matter what the power source!
There is no such thing as mosquito nets that work – there will always be at least one that finds its way through.
This post is just a quickie to let you know that we have found Spot a good home.
After travelling just under 18,000kms (11,250 miles), we sold him yesterday to a couple from Dublin who are planning to drive around Oz for 3 months. We didn’t get quite as much as we initially had hoped for, but with the time on our visa running out we felt it better to take the cash and move on. We had mixed emotions selling him – Shaz was sad, Dave was more glad.
Meanwhile we have had a lovely couple of weeks in Perth lounging around and catching up with friends. We ate out on St. Valentine’s Day for the first time ever and had one of the very best Chinese meals compliments of Alison and James. We were lucky enough to be able to meet up with John and Carole Bernard (friends of Sue & Ilan) who treated us to a fabulous meal during their stopover in Perth. In fact we have done quite a bit of eating out and now desperately need to do a lot of working out! Mind you we did hire a tandem to ride around Rottnest Island at the weekend so maybe that counts as something.
Anyway we will be on our way out of Perth this Friday, and for the first time in almost six months we will board an aeroplane. We fly to Melbourne where we will catch up with more friends, and take a 10-day trip to Tasmania – a first for both of us.
Here is the first instalment of this year and no doubt there will be more. Happy New Year to you all!
We had a really lovely Christmas with Al and James (and Debbie a friend of theirs from Stamford) – typical Aussie style with a visit to the beach followed by a BBQ. Dave did not let the Schindler family tradition go amiss and did his bit by making the champagne cocktails.
We then spent a few days around the Perth area catching up with friends. We brought in the New Year at the Trots (pony and trap racing) with Shaz having the most successful bet of the night (her only one) – great celebrations with a fantastic firework display to finish the evening.
We had one very stressful day trying to work out the motor vehicle regulations in WA – Spot’s registration was due, but as we bought him in New South Wales the regulations were different. Anyway we eventually persuaded NSW to allow us to re-register by post as at one stage we thought we might have to drive back to Sydney!
We even had one evening apart (the first in 3 ½ months) in Perth, which was something of a novelty if not rather strange. Shaz went on a girls night out with Al and Debbie, and Dave went to watch Tottenham v Ipswich at a friend’s house.
We started heading south from Perth on 3rd January and quickly got back into our ‘on the road’ routine. Al and James joined us for a great camping weekend at a lovely place called Peppermint Beach – we even managed to find an Indian restaurant to finish the weekend off in. The Chapman family who we also know from Perth just happened to be in the campsite next to us!
Our next stop was the Margaret River wine region where we took daily turns at driving so that we could both sample the local wines. We stayed in and around the region for five days and enjoyed watching the massive waves (apparently some of the best surf in the world, but we didn’t give it a go) and we also went ‘down under’ into a couple of limestone caves.
It has been rather strange the last couple of weeks for three reasons.
Firstly the climate has changed dramatically from the heat of the north – we are now enjoying much cooler weather (average 25 degrees) and even have to sleep under the duvet at night.
Secondly the distances we have to travel between places is so short – we have been used to planning food, petrol, etc for 400-600km trips and now we pass a town every 50kms.
And finally it is school holiday time here and most everywhere is very busy – something we are not at all used to, having often had campsites to ourselves. But saying that we are still meeting some lovely people. Only last Saturday night in beautiful Hamelin Bay the Aussie family next to us invited Dave out fishing (and he did catch one this time!), and had us both over to dinner – abalone, cray fish, steak, sausage and kebabs all washed down with some local wine! The Aussie people are on the whole very friendly and hospitable, not unlike the Irish!
We are now in Manjimup, the starting point for our next leg of the journey – exploring the Southern Forests area and getting back into the National Parks which we both love.
That’s all for now folks, please keep your news updates coming, we love hearing from you.
First of all Seasons Greetings to one and all. Belated Chanukah Greetings to our Jewish contingent and to you all a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year – we will be thinking of you.
We arrived safely in Perth yesterday and it is just lovely to be staying with friends again; we have not been in a home since we stayed with Wally in Sydney back in October!
As usual we have covered a lot of miles since we last wrote and again been lucky enough to see some fantastic sights – Western Australia is such a huge state with some stunning and varied landscapes, but with vast distances between towns. We have also been managing to stay ahead of the wet season weather and thankfully missed the tropical cyclone ‘Sam’ by 4 days when it hit the north west coast!
Western Australia Highlights
It was very difficult to drag ourselves away from the beautiful Cable Beach, but after a 6 hour drive when we found ourselves camped up at Eighty Mile Beach the hardship was soon forgotten. It was turtle nesting season so at 2am we were on the beach trying to spot the female turtles, but unfortunately saw only hundreds of crabs – it was the next morning when we found out that we were only about 50 yards from where the turtles had laid their eggs. Oh well, maybe there will be a next time!
We had a couple more nights on the coast before it was time to go back inland to visit a highly recommended national park – Karijini (Hamersley Ranges) – we were not to be disappointed and this was yet another highlight of our trip. It was just spectacular – sheer red rocky gorges which we walked, swam and climbed through. We met a couple of rock climbing Aussies who let us tag along with them for a day and we climbed and abseiled through some fantastic gorges.
Karijini National Park, Western Australia
It was this same hot day when we got back to our campsite and met some Aboriginal guys who shared their beer with us and more importantly gave us their ice before they left so we could have cold drinks in the evening – such a luxury! We spent 4 nights in Karijini at which stage Shaz’s hair was at the dreadlock stage – it was good to get showers (and a steak treat – it was Mrs Brunt’s birthday) at the campsite in the mining town of Tom Price.
Spot next to a mining truck in the town of Tom Price
We decided to camp a night at a sheep station (Giralia), but found out when we arrived that we had missed the shearing by a week – again maybe there will be a next time! Still we had a lovely evening with one of the stationhands and again were given cold beer – the luck of the Irish was back in force!!
Our next national park was also fantastic – Cape Range National Park on the Ningaloo Reef – we camped on the beach and spent our days snorkelling and reading (oh Dave did take breaks to watch the Australia v West Indies test match). The coral and marine life that we saw was something else – even in knee deep water we saw reef sharks, rays and millions of little fish. The colours were just stunning. Neither of us have been to the Great Barrier Reef on the east coast of Australia, but the Ningaloo Reef and Coral Bay were super impressive and not at all crowded – it is a must for any of you who ever get out this way.
Coral Bay, Ningaloo Reef, Western Australia
We then visited the World Heritage site of Shark Bay and viewed the stromatolites – apparently the oldest living creatures (3.5 billion years! as visited by Bill Bryson in his ‘Down Under’ book).
Shark Bay
Monkey Mia is also in Shark Bay and famous for it’s dolphins that swim to shore everyday, well that is except for the day that we were there (that Irish luck had run out again). It was really, really windy so when the dolphins didn’t show we didn’t hang around, plus we were really keen now to get to Perth. So it was one more stop at the Pinnacles Desert – thousands of limestone pillars standing in the sand – and now here we are in Perth.
At the Pinnacles Desert, Western Australia
Christmas Day will be spent with Alison and James and some of their friends, time on the beach and then a BBQ on their balcony – life is hard!!
We’ll post again next year. Thank you all for your Christmas Greetings and have a great festive season.
(We apologise in advance for the length of this post, but there seems to be a lot to tell)
Hot, hot, hot is the way it has been over the past few weeks. We have had a period of about 14 consecutive days where the temperature reached at least 40 degrees Celsius, and that was in the shade!
And of course Spot does not have the modern luxury of air conditioning. So our days (and some of the nights) have revolved around water – if we are not drinking it by the gallon, we try and submerge ourselves in it. Our hottest night so far was in Wyndham, the northernmost town of the Kimberley region of Western Australia, where at 42 degrees we could not sleep a wink so at 4.30am Shaz was up and in the swimming pool!
Amazingly though we are coping with the heat rather well, it is the mosquitoes and bugs that drive us to drink.
Dave hoisting our solar shower, a lifesaver in these hot conditions.
National Parks
We have been to some of the most amazing places over the past few weeks. After our refreshing stop in Darwin (which was a fairly non-descript place) we headed to Litchfield National Park and camped by some beautiful waterfalls for a few nights.
We even had guests over for after dinner drinks one evening – an English couple we had met in Kakadu – and managed to polish off our supply of gin and bacardi. We also were lucky enough to witness a full moon rising – just spectacular.
On to Katherine Gorge and our first domestic of the trip (not bad considering the conditions of 24 hours a day, 7 days a week together). We rented a canoe for the day to go through Katherine Gorge, neither of us having canoed before, an argument was on the horizon, especially as Shaz was particularly tense having seen the crocodile traps in the river (only freshwater crocs which apparently are not aggressive unless you are unlucky enough to disturb them). It all blew up at the first set of rapids when we did not have a clue what we were doing, but we got through them, and the next three sets and got into the swing of things. By the end of the day we were knackered, but had enjoyed ourselves after all.
Our next national park in the Northern Territory was Keep River, which we practically had to ourselves. Unfortunately it was not at its best as a local drunk had decided to light fires while on a walkabout and the landscape was now rather lunar looking. Still it was lovely and peaceful.
4 Wheel Driving in Western Australia
From Keep River we drove on to Kununurra in Western Australia where we started our 4 wheel drive adventure – Spot took a rest while we hired a Toyota Land cruiser and packed the tent for a week to drive the Gibb River Road which had been recommended by quite a few people.
One of the many river crossings on the Gibb River Road.
Our first night of bush camping and those storms we had been hoping to see while in the comfort of Spot now came crashing down around us in our little two-man tent!
Needless to say we were up with the sun at 4.30am and on the road again. The scenery was not as good as we had hoped and due to the lateness of the season many of the cattle stations normally open to tourists were now closed. We did manage to visit one station, which was fascinating – a million acres with just one guy living there – he sees his cattle about once a year! In the wet season these stations are often cut off for up to 4 months, and rely on supplies being flown in. The rains had not arrived just yet, so the rivers we had to cross were not too deep.
The road did get more scenic and we camped at a few lovely gorges – Dave under the stars and Shaz in the tent – and often had the places to ourselves. Dave has become quite a master at lighting and cooking on fire and we have had some excellent campfire meals.
The Bungle Bungles
The Bungle Bungle Range, the Kimberley region, Western Australia
The highlight of this 4WD adventure was the Bungle Bungle National Park – it was just surreal, and the 55km road into it was a true 4WD track. Shaz decided that this should be the testing ground for sports bra manufacturers – her Berlei shock absorber didn’t quite live up to it’s name – an over the shoulder boulder holder may have been more useful! We had another storm (7 hours of rain) while staying here (Dave tried to sleep in the back of the Land cruiser) and woke up to the loudest frog chorus we’d ever heard! The sights of this trip have only been a part of it, it is the sounds and smells that make it such an adventure. We really are living a dream.
It was good to get back to Spot and all his comforts, and to get back to the luxury of running water and public conveniences (it was hard work digging holes in 40+ degree heat).
Van camping in Western Australia
The prince and the frog
After one and two night stops over the last few weeks we decided to camp up for a week to relax and not drive. We are in Broome camping at Cable Beach, probably one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and where the sea breeze feels just fantastic.
The only problem here is it is not just the two of us sleeping in Spot – Dave awoke the other night to find a jolly green frog on his tummy and threw him out of the van, only for him to return two hours later. Thank heavens it was not on Shaz or the entire campsite would have known about it! When the campsite manager said to Dave you should have kissed it as it may have turned into a beautiful princess, he replied “yeah, but I don’t think the wife would be too happy”. We’re both quite happy with what we’ve got so we will leave the frog kissing to the Aussies!
Our over-friendly frog!
We will continue south down the coast and hopefully get to Perth in time to spend Christmas with our friends Al and James.
A word from Dave
After a recent conversation with Danny (my brother) it seems that we have been a bit remiss with our basic information.
His first question was regarding where we were staying. This can basically be divided into two categories – National Park campsites and town caravan parks. The standard, and cost of these both vary. The NP sites vary the most, with facilities going from pit toilet only to full facilities with fresh water, hot showers, electricity and bbqs. The price goes from $5.50 to $20 per night. The quality seems mainly to depend on the amount of visitors. All have been clean and well maintained.
Dave having a shave in one of the National Park campsites!
The town sites (a town being a group of dwellings with a population of more than a hundred) all have the basic amenities, the difference mainly being how well maintained they are. Some have the added bonus of a pool. In fact all the sites up North have had pools. The cost for these sites are from $15 to $25 per night depending on how touristy the area is. The Blue Mountains were the most expensive so far.
The next question involved water, Spot has a 40litre water tank so we just make sure that this is full when ever we get the opportunity. We also carry about 12 litres extra for drinking.
Food is bought in varying quantities and quality depending on whether we are going to be camping on a powered site. A powered site means we can use the fridge more effectively. It is supposed to be able to run on Gas but this doesn’t happen when the temp is 40+ outside.
Any other questions let us know.
Spot complete with awning in a town campsite Western Austraila
Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!
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