Australia Travel Diary 2000 Part 4

Australia, Road Trips, Travel, Van Life, Van Travel

Waterfalls in the Northern Territory Australia

Hot, hot, hot

1 December 2000, Broome, Western Australia

(We apologise in advance for the length of this post, but there seems to be a lot to tell)

Hot, hot, hot is the way it has been over the past few weeks. We have had a period of about 14 consecutive days where the temperature reached at least 40 degrees Celsius, and that was in the shade!

And of course Spot does not have the modern luxury of air conditioning. So our days (and some of the nights) have revolved around water – if we are not drinking it by the gallon, we try and submerge ourselves in it. Our hottest night so far was in Wyndham, the northernmost town of the Kimberley region of Western Australia, where at 42 degrees we could not sleep a wink so at 4.30am Shaz was up and in the swimming pool!

Amazingly though we are coping with the heat rather well, it is the mosquitoes and bugs that drive us to drink.

Solar shower hook up in Western Australia
Dave hoisting our solar shower, a lifesaver in these hot conditions.

National Parks

We have been to some of the most amazing places over the past few weeks. After our refreshing stop in Darwin (which was a fairly non-descript place) we headed to Litchfield National Park and camped by some beautiful waterfalls for a few nights.

We even had guests over for after dinner drinks one evening – an English couple we had met in Kakadu – and managed to polish off our supply of gin and bacardi. We also were lucky enough to witness a full moon rising – just spectacular.

On to Katherine Gorge and our first domestic of the trip (not bad considering the conditions of 24 hours a day, 7 days a week together). We rented a canoe for the day to go through Katherine Gorge, neither of us having canoed before, an argument was on the horizon, especially as Shaz was particularly tense having seen the crocodile traps in the river (only freshwater crocs which apparently are not aggressive unless you are unlucky enough to disturb them). It all blew up at the first set of rapids when we did not have a clue what we were doing, but we got through them, and the next three sets and got into the swing of things. By the end of the day we were knackered, but had enjoyed ourselves after all.

Our next national park in the Northern Territory was Keep River, which we practically had to ourselves. Unfortunately it was not at its best as a local drunk had decided to light fires while on a walkabout and the landscape was now rather lunar looking. Still it was lovely and peaceful.

4 Wheel Driving in Western Australia

From Keep River we drove on to Kununurra in Western Australia where we started our 4 wheel drive adventure – Spot took a rest while we hired a Toyota Land cruiser and packed the tent for a week to drive the Gibb River Road which had been recommended by quite a few people.

A river crossing on the Gibb River Road in the Kimberley region of Western Australia.
One of the many river crossings on the Gibb River Road.

Our first night of bush camping and those storms we had been hoping to see while in the comfort of Spot now came crashing down around us in our little two-man tent!

Needless to say we were up with the sun at 4.30am and on the road again. The scenery was not as good as we had hoped and due to the lateness of the season many of the cattle stations normally open to tourists were now closed. We did manage to visit one station, which was fascinating – a million acres with just one guy living there – he sees his cattle about once a year! In the wet season these stations are often cut off for up to 4 months, and rely on supplies being flown in. The rains had not arrived just yet, so the rivers we had to cross were not too deep.

The road did get more scenic and we camped at a few lovely gorges – Dave under the stars and Shaz in the tent – and often had the places to ourselves. Dave has become quite a master at lighting and cooking on fire and we have had some excellent campfire meals.

The Bungle Bungles

The Bungle Bungle Range, the Kimberley region, Western Australia

The highlight of this 4WD adventure was the Bungle Bungle National Park – it was just surreal, and the 55km road into it was a true 4WD track. Shaz decided that this should be the testing ground for sports bra manufacturers – her Berlei shock absorber didn’t quite live up to it’s name – an over the shoulder boulder holder may have been more useful! We had another storm (7 hours of rain) while staying here (Dave tried to sleep in the back of the Land cruiser) and woke up to the loudest frog chorus we’d ever heard! The sights of this trip have only been a part of it, it is the sounds and smells that make it such an adventure. We really are living a dream.

It was good to get back to Spot and all his comforts, and to get back to the luxury of running water and public conveniences (it was hard work digging holes in 40+ degree heat).

Van camping in Western Australia

The prince and the frog

After one and two night stops over the last few weeks we decided to camp up for a week to relax and not drive. We are in Broome camping at Cable Beach, probably one of the most beautiful beaches in the world, and where the sea breeze feels just fantastic.

The only problem here is it is not just the two of us sleeping in Spot – Dave awoke the other night to find a jolly green frog on his tummy and threw him out of the van, only for him to return two hours later. Thank heavens it was not on Shaz or the entire campsite would have known about it! When the campsite manager said to Dave you should have kissed it as it may have turned into a beautiful princess, he replied “yeah, but I don’t think the wife would be too happy”. We’re both quite happy with what we’ve got so we will leave the frog kissing to the Aussies!

Our over-friendly frog!

We will continue south down the coast and hopefully get to Perth in time to spend Christmas with our friends Al and James.

A word from Dave

After a recent conversation with Danny (my brother) it seems that we have been a bit remiss with our basic information.

His first question was regarding where we were staying. This can basically be divided into two categories – National Park campsites and town caravan parks. The standard, and cost of these both vary. The NP sites vary the most, with facilities going from pit toilet only to full facilities with fresh water, hot showers, electricity and bbqs. The price goes from $5.50 to $20 per night. The quality seems mainly to depend on the amount of visitors. All have been clean and well maintained. 

Dave having a shave at a picnic table in a National Park campsite in Western Australia.
Dave having a shave in one of the National Park campsites!

The town sites (a town being a group of dwellings with a population of more than a hundred) all have the basic amenities, the difference mainly being how well maintained they are. Some have the added bonus of a pool. In fact all the sites up North have had pools. The cost for these sites are from $15 to $25 per night depending on how touristy the area is. The Blue Mountains were the most expensive so far.

The next question involved water, Spot has a 40litre water tank so we just make sure that this is full when ever we get the opportunity. We also carry about 12 litres extra for drinking.

Food is bought in varying quantities and quality depending on whether we are going to be camping on a powered site. A powered site means we can use the fridge more effectively. It is supposed to be able to run on Gas but this doesn’t happen when the temp is 40+ outside.

Any other questions let us know.

Camper van plus awning parked in a campsite in Western Australia.
Spot complete with awning in a town campsite Western Austraila

About Us

David and Sharon Schindler with view of LA behind them

Hi, we're Sharon & Dave an active and adventurous Irish & English couple who've been travelling together for more than 20 years. These posts are our travel stories and personal journeys. Follow our adventures to see where we've been and where we're going next!

Search our blog

0 Comments

Submit a Comment

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Don't miss a post!

Pin It on Pinterest